January 2003

January 2003Block

Batik Crab Claws

Tips & Hints

For the first BOM2003 block we're doing a traditional block that Patty found on Quilter's Cache. If you haven't already discovered this website, it's a great place to find blocks and to get ideas. The background for this block will be a yellow batik or hand-dyed looking fabric. The claws will be batiks. Use at least two different batiks with a good contrast so the "claws" can be seen. If you take a look at my test block you will see I used four different batiks. We are making 12" blocks this year (that's 12 1/2" unfinished). We will be making TWO blocks for January. I'm giving you cutting instructions for using two different batiks with instructions in parentheses for four.

Below is a table with the cutting information for EACH block. This is for the sew and flip flying geese unit I will show you how to do.

202 1/2" x 2 1/2"Yellow
62 1/2" x 2 1/2"Batik 1
62 1/2" x 2 1/2"Batik 2
(3 each)(2 1/2" x 2 1/2")(Four Batiks)
42 1/2" x 4 1/2"Batik 1
42 1/2" x 4 1/2"Batik 2
(2 each)(2 1/2" x 4 1/2")(Four Batiks)
14 1/2" x 4 1/2"Yellow

For each block: Sew each of four batik 1 - 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares and each of four batik 2 - 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares to a yellow 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" square. (Two of each if you are using four different batiks). This is your squares unit. Press toward the yellow fabric. This is necessary for joining to the flying geese units in a following step. You may press two of each away from the yellow fabric if you prefer. That's how I did it in my test block.

Make eight flying geese units. Use your 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles and the remaining 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares. Four of the units will have two yellow corners and the other four units will have a yellow corner and a corner of the adjoining batik. The batik corner will be the right side corner if you're following my easy flying geese instructions. The units will be 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" unfinished.

At this point you should lay your units out, matching either the two batik or four batik examples. The 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" yellow square goes in the center of the block. This will assure that none of your units gets turned around by mistake when you're constructing your blocks.

Sew a batik 1 squares unit between two flying geese units with batik 1 as the base. The unit with two yellow corners goes on the left side, the unit with one yellow corner and one batik 2 corner goes on the right side and the square unit has the yellow square on the top and the batik 1 square on the bottom. Press this toward the squares unit. Repeat once more for the opposite corner. These are your "claw" units. Be sure you place your units back with the rest of your block layout when you're done pressing.

Sew a batik 2 flying geese unit with two yellow corners to a batik 2 squares unit. Press toward the squares unit. The flying geese unit is pointing up and the yellow square is in the lower right corner. Sew another batik 2 squares unit to the left of this unit. The yellow square is in the upper left corner. Press away from the second squares unit. This is the second unit. Make another one of these units for the opposite corner. Place the pressed units back in your block layout. (If you're using four batiks, be extra careful to get all your fabrics in the right place.)

Now you are ready for the first row. Sew the claw unit to the second unit and press toward the squares unit. Repeat for the third row, but the position in the block is rotated 180 degrees from row one. Place the rows back in your layout.

Now comes the second row. Sew a batik 1 square unit to a batik 2 flying geese unit with one yellow corner and one batik 1 corner. The yellow square will be in the upper left corner and the flying geese will be pointing up. Press toward the squares unit. Sew an identical unit, but rotated 180 degrees in the block layout. Sew the yellow 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" square between these two units and press toward the large yellow square.

Sew the rows together, matching all seams. The seams should all be opposing, which will make them match up easily. Be sure your block matches the placement in the block graphic above. Press seams toward the middle row.

Your block should measure 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" (unfinished). Click here to see a scan of the front of the test block I made. Click here to see the back. For those of you who prefer templates click here. For a foundation pattern click here. For foundations for individual flying geese units click here.

Remember to label your blocks on the BACK of your block. Sticking a return address label on each is an easy way to do this and you're already putting one on the envelope anyway. Do not forget to label your blocks. Your $3.85 Priority Mail stamp is due with your January block. Please do not forget to include it. On the outside of the envelope, in the lower left corner, please write which month(s) the blocks is(are) for (i.e. BOM Jan 2003). This helps Patty separate the BOM envelopes from the rest of her mail.

If you have questions or comments, post a note on the MSN Club or email Squirrel (Patty) or AzPatch (Margo). You will be making TWO blocks for January. Please do NOT trim your blocks. Blocks will be due to Patty by January 24th. Patty and I will be getting together to open "squishies" February 1st, so please get your blocks to her at least a week before then. If you can't get the blocks to Patty before the winners are picked, please email me for the addresses of the winners so you can mail the blocks to them directly.

I will not be including an Electric Quilt file anymore, unless there is a huge demand for it. Email me if you would like one and I'll send it to you.

January 2003 Quilt