Red & White School House
Tips & Hints
We had a suggestion to do little red school houses. I have designed a simplified block that can be done by rotary cutting and easy piecing techniques. I have also included templates for those who use them and there are also paper piecing patterns this month, as this is a block that can be adapted to paper piecing. The colors this month are white-on-white and red. I used three different red prints for my block.
For EACH block: cut from white-on-white print - one 1 1/4" x 9 1/2" rectangle, one 2" x 3 1/2" rectangle, one 2" x 2" square, two 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares, one 2 1/2" x 2 3/4" rectangle, two 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" rectangles and two 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares. For the reds I'll give you instructions for using three red prints. As always, you may make your blocks more or less scrappy, depending on your preferences. My instructions are to get your creative juices flowing. From red print one cut - one 2" x 2" square, two 2" x 4 1/4" rectangles and one 1 1/4" x 2" rectangle. From red print two cut - two 2" x 4 1/4" rectangles, one 1 1/4" x 2" rectangle, two 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" squares and one 2 3/4" x 5" rectangle. From red print three cut - one 2 3/4" x 5" rectangle and one 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" square. For those of you who prefer templates, I am including printable templates this year in pdf format. Click here for page one and here for page two. I also have paper piecing patterns for those who like to paper piece. Click here for page one and here for page two. Click on the Adobe icon at the bottom of the page if you need to download Adobe Acrobat Reader.
For each block - sew the 2" x 3 1/2" white-on-white rectangle to the 1 1/4" x 2" red print two rectangle, right sides together along the 2" side. Press toward the red print. Sew a 2" x 4 1/4" red print two rectangle to either side of the previous unit along the long sides. Press toward the red fabric. This is your door unit. This unit should measure 4 1/4" x 5". If it doesn't, check your seams to make sure they're a scant 1/4". This block has a lot of pieces and small errors in the seams now will make the block harder to get together later on.
Sew a 2" x 2" white-on-white square between a 1 1/4" x 2" red print one rectangle and a 2" x 2" red print one square, along the 2" sides. Press toward the red fabric. Sew a 2" x 4 1/4" red print one rectangle to either side of the previous unit along the long sides. Press toward the red fabric. This is your window unit. This unit should measure 4 1/4" x 5". Sew the door unit to the window unit, along the 4 1/4" sides, checking the block graphic above so the door unit is to the left of the window unit. Press toward the door unit. Sew the 1 1/4" x 9 1/2" white-on-white rectangle to the bottom of the previous unit and press toward the white-on-white rectangle. This unit should measure 5" x 9 1/2".
Sew a 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" red print two square to a 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" white-on-white rectangle along the 1 3/4" sides. Press toward the red fabric. Repeat. These are the chimneys. Sew a 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" white-on-white square to the left of one chimney. Be sure your chimney is to the lower right. (Check the block graphic.) Press toward the white fabric. Sew a 2 1/2" x 2 3/4" white-on-white rectangle to the right side of the chimney unit. Press toward the white fabric. Sew the other chimney unit to the right of the previous unit. Press toward the white fabric. Sew the remaining 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" white-on-white square to the right of the previous unit. Press toward the white fabric. This unit should measure 2 3/4" x 9 1/2".
Now it's time for the roof unit. I'm going to give you instructions using the easy flying geese method. This is how I did it. Place a 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" white-on-white square face down on the right side of the 2 3/4" x 5" red print two rectangle. The square should be even with the left side, top and bottom of the rectangle. Draw a light pencil line from the lower left corner to the upper right corner of the white square. Sew along this line, making sure you are sewing straight from corner to corner. It's a little easier to sew from the upper right corner to the lower left corner. Press the white-on-white square back along the stiching line. The square should now be folded over on itself. Both white corners should match the red corner exactly. You may leave the all the layers, trim out the middle layer, or trim a 1/4" from the sewing line. Be sure you're triming on the correct side of the line, or you'll have to do this over. (I've done this more than once in my life!) Repeat this procedure with the 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" red print three square on the right side of the red print two rectangle, drawing the line from the lower right to upper left this time. (You may have to use a light colored pencil depending on how dark your fabric is.) Sew along the line from upper left to lower right. Press the red square back on itself and trim. Now you have a flying geese unit. Now with the 2 3/4" x 5" red print three rectangle, sew the remaining 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" white-on-white square to the right side of the rectangle, as in the second part of the previous step. You will have half a flying geese unit. Sew these two units together along the short sides and press toward the left unit. (This seam will go in the opposite direction of the seam in the lower unit, making it easier to match the seam.) This is your roof unit. It should measure 2 3/4" x 9 1/2". Sew the chimney unit to the roof unit, lining up the chimneys with the top of the roof. (A pin at these points helps with matching.) Press toward the roof unit. This unit should measure 5" x 9 1/2".
Sew the roof unit to the house unit, matching the seam and being careful not to cut off the point. Press the seam toward the roof. Your block should measure 9 1/2" x 9 1/2". If your block is larger, please do NOT trim it. This will cause the points to be cut off when the blocks are set together. Please make an effort to sew with scant 1/4" seams and your block will come out the correct size. Click here to see a scan of the front of the test block I made. Click here to see the back.
Remember to label your blocks with at least your name (city, state, and email address are optional) on the BACK of your block. This may be a piece of paper tacked or pinned on, a sticky label or pigma pen in the seams. Just be sure to label them in some way. This ensures that you get credit for your blocks and lets the winner know who made each block.
If you have questions or comments, post a note on the MSN Club or email Squirrel (Patty) or AzPatch (Margo). You will be making TWO blocks for April. Please do NOT trim your blocks. Blocks will be due to Patty by the 28th of April. Patty and I will be getting together to open "squishies" May 4th so please get your blocks to her before then.
If you have Electric Quilt 4, the zipped file is available for download here.